3: Bicholim- Chorla ghat- Belgavi (88 kms)
✪ Chorla ghat and amazing Sahyadri!
✪ Wonderful forest, hills and climbs
✪ Bye bye Goa, God Bless you!
✪ Redbull incident!
✪ Mesmerizing ride and people's warmth
✪ How we can let you go without giving you anything?
Hello all. Sharing joy of solo cycling in 4 states completed some time ago through this article. 25 September! Second day of the expedition. Yesterday I had good rest in Bicholim lodge in Goa. Today there will be ghat section shortly once I start for Belgavi road. During Yesterday’s ride, there was fog on the road even much late, therefore in the ghat also there will be fog. I got ready, packed my luggage, brought down both the sacs near the cycle and tied them. Everyday I would be doing this task of 5 minutes- Loading the luggage and then unloading it in the afternoon. As I had told the lodge- persons in the night, I woke them up and got the door opened and left. Hardly had I pedaled, I realized that I had forgotten my helmet. So took it by coming again.
Today is a long and special day of ride in this expedition. I will be passing through a 16 km long and 700 m elevated Chorla ghat today. When I will reach Belgavi, two things will be there- I would be out of Konkan known for severe rains and after this day, I will not face any great ghat till I finish this in Nagpur. And also as I go away from the coastal region, rain chances would reduce. Of course, today I have to cross this first. Till Yesterday, there was a slight doubt in mind whether I could do this ghat on the single gear cycle. But Yesterday I crossed that steep climb smoothly with all the luggage. Therefore now I don’t have any doubt. Mostly I will cross entire the ghat on cycle only and maybe only a small patch I would need to push the cycle. So while starting the ride, I am more happy and curious. Also, feeling slightly touchy that today I will pass out of Konkan.
Early morning time in Goa! Few people on the road. I enquired about the road and left. Actually still feeling difficult to believe that I am really riding here and would be riding this further. I know in my head that I would be riding for next 17-18 days, I would cross this much distance. But by heart I am just thinking about today. Just the distance for this day. Today’s 88 kms. And actually I am not thinking even that far. Only small steps are in my mind- that after 12 kms or so the ghat will start. Then I will have 16 km of ghat and after that etc. So my mind does not have any burden of riding of so many days or so many kilometers. As I had told in the preface, human capacity is so great. Therefore there would be nothing difficult or troublesome. So I am just enjoying this with a relaxed and cool mind. Turning roads, small water streams and typical Konkani houses with sloppy terraces! I am passing through small villages. After one bridge, I took u- turn and then joined the highway to Belgavi.
What a beautiful landscape! Looks like there is a river nearby, but it is hidden. Beautiful road! Sounds of crows or even horn of trucks remind me of some song and I start playing it in the mind. There are messages about road safety in Konkani! After some time, I felt the need to have breakfast before the ghat starts. I was told that there are not many hotels in the ghat. I found one tea- hotel in one village. I took tea there. As there was no biscuit or snacks, I had to do with pav and tea. The hotel person talked with me and inquired about my mission. I left quickly and thought I would purchase biscuits on the road. Slowly greenery started to increase and now the road is entering mountains! Maharashtra border is there towards left at some distance. So the mountains over there must be in Maharashtra!
Chorla ghat and amazing Sahyadri!
After passing one waterbody from some distance, there was one check- post and now the ghat started! The elevation is not that high. Road is now turning and elevating. Till now there is no rain but now I can see rain coming soon. Of course, I am prepared for it. Just one difficulty with the rain is that I cannot take photos. Traffic is scattered even now. There are few buses and traveler vehicles and trucks in between. But there is no fog today. In fact, there is clear sunlight at some places. Slowly every kilometer is passed. I am cycling very easily and at a comfortable speed and so not feeling any difficulty. What a blessed I am to ride through such a great nature! So lucky I am! Started thoroughly enjoying every kilometer. Slowly the landscape with many mountains and gorges opened up. And now a dense forest! Such dense forest that any moment wild animals can arrive on the road. There are boards also that the wild animals may cross and let them cross etc. This cycle- although the single geared- riding so smoothly on this elevation! As I am very comfortably riding the first part of the ghat, I am feeling that the next and more steep part also would be managed.
After some time, there was some portion with descending road. For a few kilometers there was a downhill. Now I am seeing scenes at a long distance. Now the rain is also stopped. I can see clouds roaming in the mountains. And I do see some blue skies in front of me! That means the rain has given me a safe passage! As it had stopped raining, I could take many photos! I just enjoyed this glorious Sahyadri and its forests as much as I could gallop! Now it is the turn of the highest gradient in this ghat. Here the speed reduced. But I can still pedal. I continued slowly. The road is crossing hills one by one. I am just feeling that my cycle is Merida cycle and these mountains are Himalayan mountains of Spiti! Sometimes I also felt that this must be a geared cycle! And Chorla ghat is one like Khardungla- Fotula etc. Himalayan ghats!
After some time I felt that the energy level is dropping. I did not have proper breakfast. I also had not carried a biscuits pack with me and did not find any shop on the road. So feeling slightly tired. I then opened the food box given by Kudal cyclists and ate dry fruit and two chikki. Due tho dense trees, there is not much heat and so I am not thirsty. I have water. But I am not clearly understanding how much ghat is still remaining. There are no mile stones also. Motorbike riders are waving hands towards me and also a few of them talk to me. Sometimes people from other vehicles also turn and look at me and also wish me. Now I am riding very slowly. Looking at the mountains in my front and trying to assess how long they are, where is the gap coming, where the ridge is descending. And after one steep ascending turn, I had to get down from the cycle and start pushing it, finally. I crossed the patch this way. When the gradient was little less, I again started pedaling. Now I can see signs of the highest point of this road. On one side, there is a deep gorge. Sure, the road will turn further and then there will be the descending road. But now my energy level is also reducing. So for some time I had to walk and push the cycle. But did not feel any problem due to it. In the mountain, one should not be adamant. One has to go easily and smoothly only.
Everything from rivers, mountains, streams, forests and clouds!
Finally, the end of the ghat was round the corner. I am seeing some shops there. Whoa, now I can refuel myself. There is a very small shop there. But it has everything I need- tea, biscuits, chikki and chips also. I took proper breakfast and also filled my water bottle. I had a brief discussion with the shopkeeper. He is speaking Marathi! There are monkeys just by the shop and this person has placed a nest to stop them from coming! It is 10 am in the morning, so there is some traffic on the roads. I took two cups of tea, two biscuit packs, some chikkis and some chips and then left. The shopkeeper told me that the ghat will continue for 2-3 kms further, but now it is not ascending much. And even if there is elevation, I have had some break and also fuel. So now I am all right. Yes, there is some ascending road, but as the ghat was almost finished, it was not that difficult. Karnataka started! What a marvelous Chorla ghat it was! It took 2.5 hrs for 16 kms. But what a great experience! I could climb 90% of the ghat on the cycle. Bye bye Goa, Goad Bless you!
After the ghat, the landscape changed. There was no proper downhill, but the plateau started. I can see forests, greenery and mountains on all sides! When I had mapped Chorla ghat climb on the map, I had realized that even after the ghat is over, there are some climbs. And the highest point comes much later. Therefore after some plain road, again there were some climbs. But they are not steep ones. As I entered Karnataka, the road quality dropped. So I have to go slowly. There are some downhills also in between. What a thick forest this is! It is so rare! Even after the ghat, the forest was the same. After long time, finally that highest point came and after that there was continuous downhill. Finally some small villages are there on the road. In some patches, the road is okay. Here too many people are continuously inquiring about me.
Redbull incident!
One car traveler slowed his car and he inquired about my ride. He wished me and left. Then near one pothole, his car was slowed down and I overtook him. Then again he stopped and he inquired whether I had my lunch. I told him that I had breakfast and I will have one later on. Then he told me that in Jamboti village- that was some distance away- he has his hotel. He told me to take my lunch there. He also told that he will inform the hotel persons. I just nodded him. There were no hotels in this patch. After around 45 minutes, I reached Jamboti village. This is the first proper village after the ghat! I immediately found his hotel. I took tea- biscuits and chikki there too. But this was the time of the meal, so I ate pav- bhaji (bread and vegetable). That person also arrived now. His name was Mr. Salunkhe and he was speaking Marathi. He again appreciated me and wished me. He also took a selfie with me. When I was about to leave, he put something in my sac without even asking me. I did not understand it. It was something like a perfume bottle! When asked, he told me that it is redbull. He told me, you are riding this long in this hot climate, you are tired. In the night it will be difficult, so this would be handy. I just smiled and politely returned it to him. He again asked me and when I refused, he allowed me to leave. I just smiled and told myself- I know just one Redbull and it is Redbull trans Siberian ultra cycling expedition!
Belgavi is still some 25 kms away. But due to this incident, I could not control my laughter! I am just seeing reaction of my close friend- He would react, “He had given it with so much love. You had to take it. Refusing is not allowed, you are stupid. You don’t understand anything!” This incident and such future reaction of my friend was enough to keep me smiling for remaining ride! The road was not proper, so it took more time for remaining part. There was one more climb and when I crossed it, I had one downhill and after that finally the forest seemed to be over and the road entered plains with farms and grazing lands. Slowly plain region came and finally I was near Belgavi! But hats off to the cycle. What a great ghat it was and then the road too was difficult with potholes and stones! 2.5 hours for 16 kms of the ghat was as expected as reaching Belgavi by 3 pm was expected. Also, many people are stopping me and inquiring me, so that also takes some time. It was a mesmerizing ride. And what a warmth I received from the people!
How we can let you go without giving you anything?
Even when I reached Belgavi, one person stopped me almost forcibly. After getting all information, he told me, you are riding this long, you are doing this for the society and you have come to our Belgavi. How we can allow you to go this way without giving you anything? We will give you something and you have to take it. He was just not listening. So I finally told that I will take a chocklet. He gave me two! And seeing this, another person also gave one. In this entire the expedition, continuously I experienced warmth and affection of the people.
Initially I was not finding any organization/ group in Belgavi. But when I had interactions with Rotarians in Kudal and Goa, they helped me connect with Rotarians in Belgavi as their Rotary district is the same. Belgavi Rotarians received me. I met them for some time. They conduct many social activities and even while riding, I had seen mention of their support for one hospital on the road. After meeting them, I went to the lodge arranged by them. When I checked elevation of today’s ride, I saw that it was 88 kms and total climb was 1599 meters! It was a long ride. But I am not feeling that much tired. As it is Sunday, there is no any programme or interactions today. So I could rest more in the evening. One Rotarian accompanied me for evening supper. Overall what a day it was!
Next: Cycling in 4 states on single gear cycle 4: Belgavi to Lokapur (108 kms)
(Thanks for reading! You can enjoy the photos on the blog link given above. You can also read about my experiences of trekking, cycling, running, meditation, sky watching etc. There. If you wish to get updates of such activities, you can contact me. Niranjan Welankar 09422108376)
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